The final numbers are in for 2011 home sales in Ulster County.   Here are some highlights from the charts shown below:

• The number of homes sold in 2011 was 914, down from the high of 1,711 homes sold in 2005 – a 45% decline.

• Home sales in the $400,000 to $900,000 range declined by 61% from 2005 to 2011.

• In 2011, home sales were most active below $400,000, with sales under $100,000 being at their highest level in the last eight years.

• There was a 22% drop in the median price of homes from their high in 2007 of $250,750 to $199,000 in 2011.

• The number of days a house was on the market from listing to closing was 188 days in 2011, up from 126 days in 2004.

• It is a great time to buy a home, as interest rates are at their all-time low, and prices have dropped to there lowest level in 10 years.

The following charts were compiled based on information taken from the Ulster County Multiple Listing Service.

Before you tackle each room, consider these overall tips to make your home healthy:


• Favor harder surfaces, which are healthier because they attract less dust and are easier to clean. Bare floors are better than carpet; leather chairs and sofas are better than upholstered furniture.

• Choose shades for window treatments. They don't gather as much dust as blinds and fabric curtains and are easier to keep clean.

• Keep your home tidy and organized. Neat homes are cleaner and healthier. Pick up messy rooms and keep items off the floor.

• Place a floor mat or rug at every door. People track in all sorts of chemicals via the dirt on their shoes. A mat helps to keep pollutants from entering your home.

• Make your home a no-smoking zone.

• Test your home for radon. This colorless, odorless gas is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the U.S. today.

 

BEDROOM

Consider this: You spend a third of your life in bed. If you wake up with a runny nose or itchy throat, dust mites might be the problem.

Say "goodbye" to bed bugs: Wash sheets weekly; blankets every two weeks in hot water. Freeze non-washable stuffed animals for two or three hours. Opt for washable pillows and comforters over those made with down or feathers. Replace pillows every two years.
Laundry baskets and hampers can be a playground for germs -- don't forget to clean them regularly.

Keep a healthy level of humidity. Dust mites and mold love moisture. Keeping relative humidity around 30 to 50 percent helps keep these and other allergens under control.
Install CO detectors close to sleeping quarters. Replace after five years.

Keep closets organized and clutter at bay. Remember, tidier = healthier.

When choosing paints look for low- or no-VOC products to avoid head aches and respiratory problems.



LIVING ROOM

The living room is where the whole family goes to relax, unwind and feel good. Keep it healthy and happy by following these tips.

Houseplants work as a natural air filter by adding oxygen and absorbing carbon dioxide. Some of the best houseplants for treating indoor air pollution: philodendron, English ivy, spider plant, dracaena, weeping fig, peace lily, bamboo and reed palm.

Make sure to open your windows from time to time and air out the house. Fresh air will help clear allergens from a room.

For safer fires, install a fireplace insert and check the chimney yearly. Install carbon monoxide alarms and store firewood outside the house.

Using a vacuum cleaner that has strong suction, rotating brushes, and a HEPA filter ensures that dust and dirt won't get blown back out into the room. In high traffic areas, vacuum the same spot several times. For best results, vacuum two or more times each week and clean your filter regularly according the maker's directions.

Even if routinely change furnace and air conditioner filters and vacuum regularly, you may still want the extra insurance of an air purifier, especially if members of your household have respiratory problems. When shopping for a system, look at the CADR (Clean Air Delivery Rate) number -- the higher the number, the stronger the cleaning power.

If you have pets, keep them out of the bedroom. After all, that's where we spend the majority of our time at home. Bathe your pets regularly as well, and keep them off of the furniture.


 

KITCHEN

Kitchens are the hub of the home. Keep these tips in mind for a healthy kitchen.

Mopping picks up the dust that vacuuming leaves behind. New microfiber mops and dust cloths reportedly capture more dust and dirt than traditional materials and don't require any cleaning solutions whatsoever.

Filtering your water has never been easier, thanks to the variety of purification products available, including whole house water filtration systems, under the sink filters and faucet-mounted devices.

Don't forget to replace the filters on your refrigerator's water and ice maker.  Thoroughly clean and disinfect your refrigerator monthly.

Wash wooden boards in the sink with a brush and hot soapy water; non-porous boards of plastic, acrylic or glass can be tossed in the dishwasher.

The best strategy for keeping countertops and other kitchen surfaces healthy is two-fold: first, wipe away any visible messes with a paper towel. Then follow up with an anti-bacterial wipe or a diluted solution of bleach and water.

A clean home is a healthier home and cleaning with eco-friendly friendly cleaners is the healthiest.


 

BASEMENT

Basements can make or break a healthy home. If they're too damp, they can become a haven for mold. Neglected furnace filters and air ducts can send allergens throughout your home. Follow these tips for a healthy basement.

Use a HEPA furnace filter and remember to change every month (or follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

Look for fragrance-free or naturally-scented laundry products.

To prevent mold from taking hold, don't let wet clothes sit in the washer for long periods of time.
A dehumidifier (and air conditioner during summer months) helps reduce indoor humidity levels and effectively controls allergens.
 

Article from Lowes Creative Ideas

 

There is no perfect formula for selling your home efficiently, but by following these five tips prior to listing you can increase your chances to close quickly at a higher price.

1.) Update your old garage door(s). Garage doors seem like a non-issue, but many times they make up a significant percentage of the front of a home. Because of this, they are one of the first things that buyers notice when they pull in the drive way. Replacing, or even just painting, these central fixtures will do wonders when it comes to instantly impressing perspective buyers and standing apart from your competition. The market has changed drastically since many of us purchased our homes here in town. I frequently hear buyers say that they have taken a house off their list because of the lack of curb appeal. This issue is especially important to people on busier streets, corner lots, or near a neighborhood eyesore.

2.) Replace old windows. Outdated windows age a home significantly, and you can often upgrade standard windows to vinyl for a reasonable $300 per window. The average home has 8 windows, so this upgrade doesn’t cost nearly as much as you might think and it will make a huge difference to the value perceived by prospective buyers. Key point to remember is that when buyers view a home they love, if they see it has older windows, they consider it a time consuming and costly headache. First time buyers have never replaced windows and often dramatically overestimate the cost to cure this issue. By replacing pre-listing you an actually save money. A well priced, move-in condition home will sell for far more than one with windows in need of repair.

3.) Assess your floors . If you have hardwood flooring, it’s worth the investment to have them refinished considering buyers put an extremely high value on them; you’ll get the most bang for your buck if they are refurbished. Carpets should be shampooed and replaced if they are stained or look worn. You don’t need to spend large amounts of money on the highest grade or most modern name but something inexpensive and neutral will certainly bring you a return on the investment. Even the smell of new carpet will make buyers set your home apart from the comparables.

4.) Paint the trim. If you can’t afford the daunting task of painting your entire house, painting just the trim will still make a big difference when it comes to curb appeal. Painting the whole house can be expensive, time consuming, and delayed by weather conditions; painting just the trim will give your home a fresher look. Interior trim is equally as important.

5.) Update fixtures. Keep an eye out for sales at home improvement stores and replace outdated lighting, plumbing and hardware fixtures. Simple replacing lighting fixtures and knobs in the bathroom or kitchen can update the entire look of the room. You can find many modern brand name fixtures online on contractor supply websites by just searching for terms like sale faucets, sale plumbing fixtures etc.


By Lisa Johnson Sevajian
 

Question: My parents have lived in their house for 48 years. The house is about 54 years old. They have always used good-quality paint.  About three years ago the ceiling began to peel. When a representative from the paint company came to inspect the situation he said it was the plaster on the ceiling and not the paint.  They have delayed painting because the ceilings continue to peel. What might be the cause and what do you suggest they do? Seems like too long a time for this to happen.

Answer: Moisture is a likely cause, high humidity in the house, inadequate ventilation after insulating, a leaky pipe in the shower, clogged dryer vent - just about anything - might cause the plaster to be damp and make it difficult for the paint to adhere to the surface.

Much of what I see on the Internet about peeling paint on plaster ceilings has to do with much older houses that have several coats of paint including the be-very-careful-with lead-based stuff.
I'm almost sure it is a moisture issue, because that's what I have found over the years with my own older houses, much older than your parents' place. Until you solve it, you won't be able to repaint successfully, and then you'll need to prep very carefully and thoroughly before you do.
I asked Deborah Zimmer and the Paint Quality Institute about what makes paint fail. The clues, she said, can be found in the way your paint is failing.

"The evidence is right there, you just need to know how to interpret it," she said.
If your exterior paint is peeling, the culprit is probably moisture. Peeling occurs when wet wood swells underneath the paint, causing the paint film to loosen, crack, and ultimately peel.
Water can reach the wood through un-caulked joints or a leaky roof. Another possibility: water being forced underneath the roofing shingles because of clogged rain gutters.

Bubbles or blisters in your paint can eventually lead to peeling, so they can't be ignored. This problem can usually be traced to either heat or moisture.  If your house was originally painted on a very hot day in direct sunshine, for example, blistering can result, especially if a dark-color paint was applied.

Sometimes, moisture is to blame. Excess moisture from within the home can build up behind the paint and cause blisters (this is less likely with latex paint, which is vapor permeable); rain or heavy dew can also produce blisters if the surface preparation wasn't done properly or if low-quality latex paint was used.
 

|By Alan J. Heavens, Inquirer Real Estate Writer

In the winter, drafty windows can account for up to 25 percent of our heating bill.

However, there are some fixes that will make all the difference. Common choices include insulating drapes, interior storm windows, and plastic window insulation kit. Each of these solutions has its own pros and cons, but they all insulate the same way. They create an insulated air buffer between your home and the window surface.

Insulated drapes are considered the most attractive option, but experts stress the importance of proper insulation. Drapes must be flush with the wall to effectively create an air space between the window surface and the curtains. Improperly installed curtains that let air pass through the sides of the drapes can actually pull heat away from the room.

Drapes, of course, can be reused and will help reduce utilities costs in every season.

Interior storm windows can be fitted to your windows and are effective at reducing air infiltration. These units use a fitted pane that often clips into a frame. Pane materials range from the more expensive glass to polycarbonate plastic. The advantage to interior storm windows is that they can be reused for several years. Many favor interior storm windows over exterior varieties because they are easier to install will require less maintenance. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, interior storm windows can reduce heat loss by 25 to 50 percent.

Plastic insulation kits are a very economical choice. Kits include a plastic sheet that is attached to a window frame with adhesive tape and then stretched tight by applying heat with a hair dryer. The plastic film is made of vinyl, polyester or polyethylene and can technically be removed and stored for next winter's use. Most homeowners, however, find these kits to be single season items due to tears in the plastic and the milky appearance created by the aging plastic.

So which is your best choice? Go with a reusable option like interior storm windows or insulating drapes. Homeowners that want to realize long term savings should consider upgrading to Energy Star qualified windows. Energy Star-rated windows will have a substantial upfront cost but are the most efficient way to reduce home heat loss around windows.

Whether you go big or small, do your part to keep the warm air inside your home and more money in your wallet.
 

By Terri Bennett (c) 2010, The Charlotte Observer


 

If your family gets drinking water from a private well, do you know if your water is safe to drink? What health risks could you and your family face? Where can you go for help or advice?

EPA regulates public water systems; it does not have the authority to regulate private drinking water wells. Approximately 15 percent of Americans rely on their own private drinking water supplies, and these supplies are not subject to EPA standards, although some state and local governments do set rules to protect users of these wells. Unlike public drinking water systems serving many people, they do not have experts regularly checking the water’s source and its quality before it is sent to the tap. These households must take special precautions to ensure the protection and maintenance of their drinking water supplies.

• Basic Information - Learn about the types of drinking water wells and guidelines for proper construction.
• Where You Live - Find information about private drinking water wells in your region or state.
• Frequent Questions -This page answers questions you may have about your well water.
• Human Health - Learn about health risks associated with drinking water wells.
• Partnerships - Several organizations are working to keep private drinking water wells safe.
• What You Can Do - Learn how to do your part in keeping your drinking water well safe.
• Publications -Download or order copies of brochures, booklets, posters, reports, and multi-media publications.
• Related Links - Link to web sites with additional information on private drinking water wells.
• Glossary - Look up unfamiliar terms in EPA’s electronic glossary Delicious

If you're looking for solutions to landscaping challenges, decorative rock and gravel just might be the ticket.

Drainage issues? Budget-friendly alternative to a paved patio? Interesting edging for your flower beds? Check, check, check.

The dilemma for Pam Messick was that nothing grew under the linden tree in her front yard, one of those giant trees with the dramatic canopies you see lining the streets of Prairie Village, Kansas. Not grass, not ivy, not even hostas.

"My husband and I'd sit on my front porch, and it would look like a dust bowl," she says. "It wasn't pretty." Working with Sharp Landcaping this year, Messick selected cobblestone reminiscent of summers in Colorado. She wanted the spot to feel Asian, so a Japanese maple was added among the stone. Neighbors walking their dogs frequently stop and talk to Messick about her new rockscaping. "They tell me they love my rock garden," Messick says. "When the rocks get wet from the rain, they're especially beautiful. Vibrant color veins pop out. Sure, I could have added just mulch, but this is so much more interesting. It feels natural and perfect.

To make the tree-canopied spot a sitting garden, Messick plans to add another strong stone statement, a boulder bench. So far, she has chosen the decorative gravel. Jack Robinson says in recent years, interest has grown in xeriscaping, using plants and other materials that help reduce water use. "They want less maintenance," Robinson says. "Not all the mowing."

Adding rock or gravel is one of the best ways to create a permeable landscape, says Jamie Durie, the Australian designer and host of HGTV's "The Outdoor Room." "It absorbs water and melted snow rather than them running off into the street," he says. With all the benefits, using decorative rock requires thoughtful planning and requires upkeep, says Kristopher Dabner.
For example, Dabner designed a series of pea-gravel backyard patios and pathways for a Lawrence home. First it needed a level of aggregate, then breathable landscape fabric as a weed barrier before a final layer of pea gravel.

With any stonescaping project, Dabner says, you need to "stay ahead of weeds."
"Herbicide needs to be sprayed when the weeds are small. If you let them sprout for a few weeks, you'll have a huge mess on your hands." Because of the major weed patrol it would require, Dabner says people should not use decorative rock instead of mulch in most cases - especially around the perimeter of a house.

But Dabner likes rock for a dramatic, modern statement - like creating a square, circular or triangular gravel patio instead of the usual concrete rectangle. And he likes stone as a solution for drainage. He helped Nancy Addy create a dry creek bed in her sloping yard that backs up to woods. Gravel was placed on the bottom, and prettier river rocks are on top, mimicking a winding stream.

An avid gardener, Addy walked the path next to the ribbon of rocks, marveling at lush vegetation as well as snails, caterpillars and cocoons. "One thing about rock is that it attracts tiny creatures: snakes, mice and voles," she says. "They don't bother me, and I don't bother them. You also need to always be wearing the right shoes because rocks move beneath your feet." The stepping stones that weave through Addy's yard come from rocks excavated from their lot.
"The rocks are beautiful and natural," she says. "I love them."

ROCK SHOPPING
Measure the length and width of the area. "So many people have to come back because they didn't measure; they try to use their arms and hands as estimates," says Jack Robinson. Signs typically spell out how much footage a ton of rock covers - employees can help, too.

Take pictures of the spots where you want rock. Plotting your house and yard on graph paper helps, too. "Think of rock shopping like buying furniture," Robinson says. "You want to make sure it fits size-wise and style-wise."

Go for a natural, regional look. "White rocks and red rocks are out of place here," says landscape designer Kristopher Dabner. "The super-colorful rocks you'd see in Arizona don't look at home in the Midwest."

Remember other materials. For example, say you're going to edge a flower bed with salt-and-pepper- colored, goose-egg- shaped granite river cobbles. First, you'll need two parallel strips of metal edging to outline the bed. Between the strips, fill in with landscape gravel before placing the cobbles on top.

Be mindful of environmental ethics. Jamie Durie of HGTV says rocks from Third World countries are a bad idea. "You'll see inexpensive rock from India and Indonesia that's from their rivers. Fish need those rocks for silvering. People really depend on those rocks as part of their food chain." But, he says, manmade rock "can look great."

BY Stacy Downs, McClatchy Newspapers

UNDER CABINETS
Kitchen and architectural designer Billie Deatherage in Kansas City makes sure all her kitchen projects have under-cabinet lighting. “It’s so important for task lighting,” she says. “But it’s also a great ambient light for entertaining.” She advises installing under-cabinet lighting toward the front of the bottom of a cabinet. If it’s installed in the back, the light doesn’t distribute evenly and creates bright spots and shadows.

ALL-IN-ONE
Geri Higgins is seeing more kitchen ceiling fixtures that have integrated exhaust fans — an alternative to the large range hood. Styles range from contemporary to crystal chandelier. Elica’s “Star” ventilation light is $4,265 at Portfolio.

CAN ALTERNATIVES
If you don’t like the hot spots that recessed can ceiling fixtures make on countertops, consider frosted glass fixtures. Shirley Allen advised interior designer Dianne Boren to use them in her kitchen. Boren likes the results.

ABOVE DOORS
Shirley Allen advises designers and clients to install sconces above kitchen doors exit-sign style. “They act as night lights for teens getting in at night or for late-night snackers.” Interior designer Dianne Boren’s kitchen has a sconce to the door leading outside and another to a hallway. “This is an under-the-radar lighting detail, but it’s functional and pretty.”

By Stacy Downs


 

When most people think of fireplaces, they recall traditional ones, found in older and classic homes. In a traditional fireplace, the fire is encased in a metal firebox lined with special firebrick. Smoke moves up a flue, which is typically a tile or metal liner inside a masonry chimney. A flue damper keeps air from escaping when the fireplace isn’t being used; and the smoke shelf, behind the damper, stops outside air from coming in and pushing harmful smoke into the living area.

Besides traditional fireplaces, though, there are plenty of other types. A heat-circulating fireplace produces some radiant heat, but mainly warms the air that circulates around the firebox; some have a fan that increases the air flow. A gas fireplace is mostly decorative and takes gas logs. By contrast, direct-vent fireplaces are like a wood-burning heat circulator—cool air enters at the bottom, is warmed, and rises out the vent at the top; the CO is expelled out the rear, so there is no need for a chimney. Finally, if you have a modern home or apartment, there’s a good chance you’ll have a modern wood stove—they’re desirable because they’re more efficient that a heat-circulating fireplace.

No matter what type of fireplace you have, maintenance is key to safety. First, before the winter, it’s essential to call in a professional to clean the chimney. Creosote can build up in the chimney and start fires. Typically, as soon as the creosote in the chimney is 1/8-inch thick, that’s an automatic sign to call in a professional who will also check the firebox and masonry and fill in potentially dangerous cracks.

Another important safety note: Chimneys must be lined with metal, or the appropriate tile. Older homes (especially those built before 1950) are typically not. If you have just moved to your home, this is something that a certified home inspector should have found during an inspection; but, if you’re not sure, call in a reputable, professional home inspector to assess the safety of the chimney. The inspector will give input on required repairs you need to have done.

Beyond professional maintenance, it’s essential for the homeowner to take safety precautions too. Here are some of the most important:

-Never burn pine or soft wood; it generally causes extremely fast creosote buildup.

-If you have a wood stove, make sure ashes don’t build up too much. One or two inches of ash is optimal; more than that, and you should remove some.

-Never burn pressure-treated or painted wood; it can cause noxious fumes.

-Never burn any kind of trash—paper, Christmas trees, anything at all—in a wood-burning fireplace. Only use logs made for wood-burning fireplaces.

-Never burn charcoal in a wood-burning fireplace.

-Even though it’s tempting to have as big a fire as possible, never overload a fireplace or wood stove; it can cause restricted air flow and dangerously high levels of combustion.

-Use logs specifically designated for your type of fireplace. If the label on the log’s packaging doesn’t detail this clear enough (which it should), ask a representative at the store you’re buying it from.

-If you have a direct-vent fireplace, make sure that it’s underwritten by Underwriters’ Laboratories (the “UL” symbol will be prominently listed on the packaging) or by the American Gas Association (AGA).

-Play it safe. If anything looks or smells out of the ordinary while you’re operating your fireplace, call a professional for servicing.

That first taste of fall means the beginning of a big run of good-byes: so long to summer vacation, good-bye grilling season and farewell to football-free weekends.

But before you give a hasty send-off to the mowing season, be aware that there's a pretty decent checklist of prescribed fall lawn-mower maintenance tasks you might want to tackle.

Sure, most people may equate lawn-mower maintenance with early spring, but experts say fall is a fine time to do upkeep on the old reliable walk-behind.


A bit of work now will save you quite a bit of time and money when it comes time to roll the mower back out of the garage next year.

"Maintenance makes equipment easier to start," said Roy Berendsohn, senior home editor at Popular Mechanics. "That may or may not result in direct cost savings, but it certainly reduces the wear and tear on you. Few things are as frustrating as trying to start a cranky piece of outdoor power equipment. Nobody needs that frustration on a busy weekend."

When it comes to maintaining machinery, clean is important.

Before you even put the mower away for the season, one particular aspect of fall presents its own challenges for mowers: leaves.

"The best thing to do during fall use is to double-check your air filters," said Ryan Hays, manager at Rick's Lawnmower in Blue Springs, Mo. "The air filters get dirtier faster when you mulch leaves. If they get stopped up, they have to suck air from somewhere, and then they'll suck unfiltered air, and you can damage the motor. "Also, some manufacturers tell you to change the oil in the fall because the dirtier and dustier conditions from leaves can impact the oil faster."
Another key through-the-season task: Keep a sharp blade, particularly with the added strain of leaf mulching.

"You can use better than 20 percent more fuel with a dull blade," said Peter Sawchuk, program leader for home improvement with Consumer Reports. "I always recommend people buy a second blade for the mower. It's usually under $10."

Keeping the mower deck clean is also an important task - certainly before you stow away the mower for the year.

"Having clippings and debris build up on the underside cuts the air flow and dramatically impacts the effectiveness of the mower," Sawchuk said.

At the end of the season, Sawchuk recommends turning the mower on its side with the carburetor facing up and cleaning the undercarriage with a hose. "If you leave clippings under there at the end of the season, it can start to rust and corrode."

Changing the oil is more of a judgment call. Most experts recommend changing the oil frequently during the mowing season - as often as every 25 hours of mowing time. As for prior to storage, though, mower maestros are split.

"That's a tough call," said Popular Mechanics' Berendsohn. "Some people recommend an oil change at the end of the season because it prevents dirty oil and sludge from sitting around in the engine's crankcase over the winter.  "I think it's better to change the oil in the spring before beginning the next mowing season. That ensures that the oil is as fresh and clean as possible at the beginning of the season."

So far, so good. It's all pretty much the same advice passed down from dad, granddad, and, quite possibly, great-granddad.

One topic your predecessors may not have worried about - but that you absolutely need to keep in mind - is alternative fuel. And failure to do so may lead to a significant headache and a significant repair bill.

"Ethanol is creating some problems in small engines," Sawchuk said.  Explains Rick Muscoplat, contributing editor at the Family Handyman magazine: "Oxygenated gas only has a 30-day shelf life. After that, the ethanol starts to separate."  That ethanol falls to the bottom of the tank, he said. And ethanol will absorb any moisture present in the air into the gas tank.  That water can work its way into the carburetor, leading to corrosion.  "If you leave that gas in all winter, your carburetor can be toast by next spring," Muscoplat said.  And a carburetor repair job isn't cheap - anywhere from $70 and more for a walk-behind to $200 and up for a riding mower.

One fix, thankfully, is cheap: a bottle of gas stabilizer, $7.  Fuel stabilizer can accomplish several tasks, Berendsohn said: it increases the lifespan of stored gasoline, it helps it burn more cleanly and efficiently, and it can prevent the separation that leads to corrosion.

Own a riding mower? A lot of the advice is the same, but the job ahead of you is a bit bigger.
Clean the deck, naturally, watch the oil, filters and gas. Maintain the air pressure in the tires. Wheel bearings may need lubrication.

"You'll also have to charge that battery over the storage season, or you have to buy a new one every other year," Sawchuk said.

David Fittje, department manager of seasonal at the Lowe's in Kansas City, Mo., said that riding owners may want to make sure they check their belts on the rider. If it's a little worn, over the winter it can crack or break.

"Spending the 20 minutes prepping a mower for winter can save you a lot of hassle come spring."


FALL MOWER MAINTENANCE
John Deere provides these tips to ensure you're getting the best cut quality and longer life from your equipment.

Tighten all nuts and bolts.

Check all belts, filters, safety shields and guards.

Replace any damaged or missing parts, including spark plugs.

Check tire tread and pressure.

Add a fuel stabilizer to the gas tank.

After adding stabilizer, run the engine for five minutes.

Change the oil (or in the spring).

Replace the filter.

Sharpen the blade, but be careful not to sharpen it to a razor's edge - it will crack, peel back and hack grass to shreds. Leave a thickness of about 1/64 of an inch to keep the blade strong.

Balance the blade to prevent vibration. Put the center hole of the blade on a nail hammered into a garage stud. If one side goes down, file it until it becomes level.

Do not store in an enclosed place where fuel fumes can accumulate or be exposed to an open flame, spark or pilot light.

By John Shultz, McClatchy Newspapers